Too Many Roads Lead to Rome

I’ve wanted to take my wife to Italy pretty much since the day we met. After a memorable college year in Rome in the 1980s I knew I’d go back one day, especially since I tossed a few coins into the famous Trevi Fountain before I left. Today however, I sit wondering if I really will set foot in the Eternal City again. Thanks to overwhelming numbers of tourists, Rome might as well put a “sold out” sign on its city gates. Blame it on the Catholics?

Trevi Fountain, Rome

2025, less than four months from now, is a Jubilee Year for the Catholic Church.  Maybe your idea of a jubilee is a celebration, much like Britain’s in 2022 when they honored Queen Elizabeth’s unprecedented seventy years of service to the Crown.  Not so the Catholics.  They define a jubilee – every 25 or 50 years – as a “marked opportunity for the remission of sins, debts, and of universal pardon”.

Catholic jubilees traditionally include a pilgrimage to Rome.  I’d love to know who runs the calculations (and how) but the forecast for next year in Rome has Catholic pilgrims at around 32 million… in addition to the 50 million tourists who normally pass through.  To put that total in perspective, the population of Rome is only 3 million.  That’s a whole lot of extra pepperoni on the pizza (or piazza, if you will).

[Side note: 1983, the year I lived in Rome, was an out-of-cycle Catholic jubilee known as the Holy Year of the Redemption.  Do I remember millions of Catholics “roaming” through the city streets?  I do not.  Then again I’m a Methodist, so maybe I have an excuse for missing the obvious…]

You call this a crowd? Just wait ’til 2025.

Thanks to next year’s jubilee, officials are clamping down on a visitor’s ability to see or tour the city’s most famous attractions.  The Fontana di Trevi is a good example of how things will change.  In the 1980s I could stand in front of the Baroque fountain to my heart’s content.  In 2025 I will need a ticket through a reservation system.  That ticket gets me entry through one side of the piazza and exit through the other, at a specific time and for a specific (amount of) time.  Hired “stewards and hostesses” make sure I don’t linger, and collect a 2-euro fee for the experience.

If I really wanted to be herded like sheep I’d join a flock on the green, green grass of Ireland, instead of paying for the privilege in Rome.  And speaking of paying, the Trevi already collects over $1.5M in coins voluntary thrown into its waters (the money then donated to local charities).  Add in the new 2-euro fee, and even if just 10% of next year’s visitors make it to the Trevi, Rome will nab an additional $18M.  Jubilee indeed.

St. Peter’s Square, Rome

If I sound jaded about Rome’s forced hand, it’s only because I have the perspective of a time when everything seemed so much easier.  In the 1980s I could wander through St. Peter’s Square without photo-bombing dozens of iPhones.  I could also wander without encountering a random protest about a religious war or climate change.  I still remember plunking down on the cobblestones of that grand piazza to paint a watercolor of the Basilica, and nobody bothered me.  I also remember Frisbee with a fellow student in another piazza, while the local Italians watched the spinning disc in wonder.  Innocent times indeed.

Roman Forum

In 2024, a guided tour of the Vatican (the only way to see it) – including the sublime Sistine Chapel – will set you back $50.  A tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum will cost you twice that much.  I’m sure next year’s pilgrims will pay these fees without blinking a sin-forgiven eye.  I just can’t get past my free-and-easy days as an architecture student, when each of the city’s wonders was as wide open and come-on-in accessible as you can imagine.

The truth is I’d go back to Rome in a heartbeat, even if I knew untold millions of pilgrims would be standing alongside me.  The Eternal City is worth the look even if you never step inside any of its buildings.  On the other hand, if I’m patient and wait until 2032, it’ll be the 50th anniversary of my college year.  That calls for a jubilee!  I’ll be the only pilgrim of course (er, two of us counting my wife) but at least we’ll have no hassles dropping coins into the Trevi.

Some content sourced from the Skift Newsletter article, “Rome Tourism Chief Says There’s ‘Total Chaos’ at Trevi Fountain…”, and Wikipedia, “the free encyclopedia”.

Rolling in the Isles

With the world “opening up” again, my wife and I often talk about places we’d like to visit. Some of them are more accessible now that we live near the East Coast. One in particular is further away. But coincidence or not, the five locales tempting the travel bug in me have one thing in common.  Every one of them is an island.

#16 at The Masters in Augusta, GA

Let’s get my first choice out of the conversation straight away, because it kind of stretches the definition of “destination” and “island”.  I want to go see a round of The Masters golf tournament in Augusta, Georgia.  If you’re not into golf you won’t understand the fuss, but trust me, when you’ve watched this competition on television every April since you were a kid, the place becomes a shrine of sorts.  The Masters never played into our decision to move to South Carolina, but the course is suddenly only forty-five minutes from my new front door.  So why is it an “island”?  Have you been to Augusta?  The Masters is like finding a bright green emerald in a bowl of gravel.  Let’s just say it would be complimentary to describe the rest of Augusta as “plain vanilla”.

There are no bad photos of Hawaii

Now for the real islands.  The first two fall on a lot of must-see lists: Hawaii and Ireland.  Hawaii is no less appealing even though South Carolina makes it three hours further than from where I used to live.  I’ve only seen “The Islands” on my honeymoon and on family trips (decades ago) so I know this time around would be decidedly more adventurous.  Not that I want to bungee-jump into a volcano or anything; rather just take a closer look at all Hawaii has to offer.

Ho-hum… just another town in Ireland

As for Ireland, it feels a lot closer when you live up against the East Coast.  If I had x-ray vision I might see the Blarney Stone from these parts.  My wife and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary with our first trip to the Emerald Isle, where we saw a lot of Dublin and only a wee bit of everything else.  We tossed a coin into the Trevi Fountain to be sure we’d go back, and… oh wait, right… that’s Rome.  Anyway, something we did in Ireland back then – whatever it was – instilled the yearning to go back someday.  And we will.

Mackinac Island’s Grand Hotel

Island #4 – Mackinac – sits neatly between the two peninsulas of the state of Michigan. The “Crown Jewel of the Great Lakes” has been on my must-see list ever since I watched Somewhere in Time in college in the 1980s.  Yeah the movie’s a little corny, but it’s utterly romantic and it stars Jane Seymour, so cut me some slack.  More importantly, Somewhere in Time shows off Mackinac’s Grand Hotel in all of its past/present glory.  No, I can’t afford the stay at the Grand (rooms start at $500/night) but I’ll settle for one of the B&B’s on the island and spend my money on other stuff instead.  Like a horse-drawn carriage tour with my wife (Mackinac has no cars).  Or a round of golf on the only course in the country where the trek between the front nine and the back is, again, by horse-drawn carriage.  Or a brick of Mackinac’s famous fudge.  Whatever the draw, I’ll endure two connecting flights, a couple hours of driving, and a quick ferry ride, just to experience Mackinac’s throwback delights.

I’ve saved the best for last (well, at least, I think it’s the best).  If I ever make it to France, I’m heading straight to Mont-Saint-Michel.  “St. Michael’s Mountain”, which I’ve blogged about here, first captured my imagination when professional sandcastle builders (yes, there are such people) built a replica on the beach where I grew up, and again when I studied architecture in college. 

Mont-Saint-Michel
The beach-sand version

The whole island setup is just so remarkable: nothing but a walled village of shops, restaurants, and other structures, connected by cobblestone streets ascending up, up, up to the Romanesque church and abbey at the pinnacle.  Only 29 residents at last count.  The surrounding tides ebb and flow, so at times Mont-Saint Michel is an island and at other times not so much.  And about that abbey on top.  The first cornerstone was laid in 1023, making Le Mont 1,000 years old this year.  All that time and I’ve never ever seen it?  Mon dieu.

One of Ireland’s many Aran Islands

If I make it to my five “islands”, I might have to add just one more.  Ireland is paying people almost $100k for the “gift” of an island off the western coast of the country.  There are twenty such islands.  The catch: you have to refurbish whatever structures you find and you have to live there.  Shelter yes, but food, water, power, and fellow humans are maybe’s.  Yeah, I won’t be rolling with any of those isles.  Let’s just start with that golf course down the street from me, shall we?

Some content sourced from the CNN Travel article, “Ireland will pay you $90,000 to move to a beautiful island home”